Greenwashing Isn’t an Accident- It’s a Business Strategy
Sustainability sells. That’s why more and more fast fashion brands are marketing themselves as “green”- but unfortunately, the reality behind these labels sometimes tells a different story. From recycled collections to carbon offsetting promises, the industry is constantly reinventing its image to appear eco-friendly without necessarily making meaningful change.
Fast fashion thrives on deception, and greenwashing is a carefully crafted strategy- not a mistake. The moment a brand gets exposed, it rebrands, launches a new sustainability campaign, and continues business as usual.
So, can fast fashion brands ever become truly sustainable, or is it just another marketing illusion?
The ‘Rebranding’ Tactic: When a Bad Reputation Gets a Fresh Start
When fast fashion brands face criticism for greenwashing, they often don’t fix their issues- they rename them. A sustainability initiative that no longer holds consumer trust gets rebranded with a fresh name, a new marketing campaign, and updated messaging- without addressing the fundamental problems behind it.
Take H&M for example, which launched its H&M Conscious collection in 2010 as a sustainability initiative. However, in 2021, a Norwegian Consumer Authority investigation found the brand’s marketing claims to be misleading and lacking transparency. While the Conscious collection focused on using “more sustainable materials” like recycled polyester and organic cotton, it was widely criticized for misleading consumers with vague claims and a lack of transparency about the actual impact of these materials. Following this, H&M quietly phased out its “Conscious” label and publicly announced its new circularity initiative as part of a broader shift in its sustainability messaging.
With H&M’s new goal towards a circular business model, the company aimed to frame sustainability as a holistic, circular process, emphasising goals like textile recycling, resale programs, and increased use of circular design principles. However, despite the shift in branding, H&M’s core production model remained unchanged- H&M Group continues to manufacture more than 3 billion garments per year, many of which are designed for short-term use, directly contradicting the principles of circular fashion, and raising questions about the environmental impact of such high-volume production.
This strategy isn’t unique to H&M. Other brands introduce “eco-friendly” collections, highlight vague terms like “responsibly made” or “low-impact,” and release sustainability reports that focus on small wins rather than systemic change. For example, Zara’s “Join Life” collection uses language like “lower environmental impact” yet the brand still produces approximately 35,000 new styles each year, aggressively fueling overconsumption.
By repackaging sustainability, brands maintain an ethical image while continuing business as usual. But when these efforts fall apart under scrutiny, they don’t just abandon them- they turn to another powerful tool: PR. With the right messaging, even the biggest scandals can be reshaped into stories of ‘progress’ and ‘commitment to change.’ But is this transformation real, or just another layer of greenwashing?
The Role of PR Firms in Cleaning Up Fast Fashion Greenwashing Scandals
When a fast fashion brand faces public backlash- whether for greenwashing, poor working conditions, or environmental harm- their next move isn’t always meaningful reform. Instead, many turn to PR firms to manage the fallout, reshaping their public image while making minimal changes behind the scenes.
This cycle follows a familiar pattern:
- Bad press – A brand is exposed for unethical practices.
- Greenwashed rebrand – A new initiative, report, or collection is launched to signal change.
- Positive media coverage – Press releases, influencer collaborations, and sustainability messaging rebuild consumer trust.
- Consumers move on – As attention shifts, the brand continues operating just as they did before.
- The cycle repeats – Until the next scandal emerges.
Paid media and influencers often play a key role in this process. Brands invest heavily in partnerships and advertorials to shift the narrative, ensuring that articles and social media content highlight their “progress” rather than their past misconduct. This curated storytelling allows companies to maintain an ethical façade while the fundamental problems remain unaddressed.
For consumers, the challenge is to look beyond the PR spin. Do these campaigns reflect real, systemic change- or are they just a temporary distraction?
Can Brands Actually Change?
Not all brands greenwash forever- some do change, but it takes real action, not just PR.
While many fast fashion brands stick to the greenwashing cycle, some companies have successfully shifted toward more sustainable practices- proving that change is possible, but only when it’s backed by tangible actions rather than just marketing buzzwords.
While it can be difficult to differentiate between a performative PR rebrand and a brand genuinely looking to grow and change their practices, a good place to start is to look out for:
Full Supply Chain Transparency: Genuine brands disclose where and how their products are made, giving consumers insight into every stage of production.
Third-Party Certifications: Certifications like Fair Trade, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), and B Corp validate a brand’s sustainability claims and ensure they meet established standards.
However, when it comes specifically to sustainable fashion, Eco-Stylist’s own certification process offers a more targeted and rigorous assessment. Brands that pass Eco-Stylist’s sustainability criteria are thoroughly vetted for ethics, transparency, and impact—making them a reliable choice for conscious consumers.
Learn more about our certification here.
Commitments Backed by Action, Not Just Targets: Be wary of brands that set ambitious goals but fail to follow through. True sustainability is reflected in tangible actions- such as reducing production volumes, sourcing renewable materials, or improving waste management systems- not just lofty promises.
What Can Be Done to Break the Cycle of Greenwashing in the Fashion Industry?
Don’t Fall for Vague Green Marketing: Be cautious of catchphrases like “eco-friendly” or “sustainable” without clear evidence or transparency. Look for specifics.
Check Transparency Reports, Not Just Slogans: Brands should provide clear information about their sourcing, production, and environmental impacts. If this information isn’t readily available, it’s a red flag.
Support Ethical Brands You Can Trust: Instead of shopping fast fashion, choose thoroughly vetted sustainable brands that are actively working towards long-term change. By supporting these brands, you help shift the industry in a better direction; you can visit our brand guide here.
Buy Second-hand: Opting for second-hand clothing is a powerful way to reduce demand for fast fashion. It extends the life of garments, reduces waste, and supports a more circular economy.
The Role of Government Regulation: Laws like the EU Green Claims Directive are a step toward holding brands accountable for misleading sustainability claims. Regulatory pressure can force companies to be more transparent and make genuine changes to their business models.
Ultimately, while the fast fashion industry may continue to spin its web of greenwashing, it’s up to informed consumers, transparency, and stronger regulations to drive the real change that’s urgently needed for a sustainable future.
Want to shop better?
So you’re ready to ditch greenwashing for good, but not sure where to start? We’ve got you. Avoid the worst offenders with our Brands to Avoid list and find pieces you’ll love (and trust) in our Shopping Guides, with ethical alternatives you can actually feel good about supporting.
Ropafadzo is a content writer and Modern Languages student based in Essex. She cares deeply about sustainability, ethics, and how we tell stories around fashion. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, learning about different ways of life, and exploring what conscious living means to different people.
