How Sustainable and Ethical is Primark? Is Primark Fast Fashion?

Let’s investigate Primark, which is a fast fashion brand that has gained significant popularity for being trend-setting AND affordable. However, what is the extent of environmental and social cost amongst issues of pollution, waste and labor exploitation for Primark to keep delivering budget-friendly fashion?  

Behind the cheap price tags, how sustainable and ethical are Primark’s processes? Why do we, at Eco-Stylist, feel Primark is no more deserving of a score of 17/100? Find out some of the sustainable brands we recommend to shop as an alternative that look good, feel good AND do good.

Is Primark fast fashion?

Primark is an international retailer, with 450 stores across Europe and the US, offering customers a wide range of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, as well as beauty and homeware. 

Centered around ‘affordability’, Primark concentrates on keeping the products ‘price as low as possible’ for the consumer. With this philosophy, they boast a business model of including ‘buying at scale’, making savings by buying from suppliers in bulk, very little advertising, and designing clothes that are of the latest trend, but without the expensive extras (i.e. hangers, tags). 

Primark constantly releases new collections, often mirroring high-end fashion trends but for a fraction of the price. The brand’s disposable fashion and encouragement of continuous consumption are the epitome of fast fashion philosophy, promoting overproduction and consequently overconsumption. Furthermore, centering a product around ‘cheapness’ juxtaposes the very essence of ‘sustainability’, prioritizing a cheap price tag over quality, but more importantly environmental and social consequence.

Is Primark’s clothing sustainable fashion? 

Primark have claimed to have made progress with their sustainability in recent years, as a result of their  ‘Primark Cares commitments’. The company has implemented initiatives such as using sustainable cotton, reducing water usage and pledging commitment to ethical sourcing. Changes such as using a hanger that is a minimum 90% recycled polypropylene, as well as decreasing thickness of protective packaging (saving plastic use by 2.7 tonnes) are a couple of the steps Primark has taken in reducing the use of single-use plastic for in-store operations. 

However, Primark continues to struggle with a reliance on fast fashion production methods as a result of their business model, prioritizing low-cost, high volume production. Producing and selling on mass, with a focus on the ever changing trend cycle and affordability contradicts some of the claims of the Sustainability Promise as it limits the amount workers can be paid, puts huge pressure on consistently using natural resources from the environment, and maintaining a high level of production emissions with the high product turnover.  It is this business model, which is the foundation in which the brand is built, that complicates as well as limits Primark’s sustainability journey. Keep reading to find out why brands promoting longevity rather than disposability are the ones making huge progress in ethical and sustainable fashion.

What materials does Primark use and how does that influence sustainability?

Primark uses an extensive range of materials in all of its clothing and accessory lines, which reflect the prioritisation of affordability in fashion-forward designs. These are some of the materials that Primark most commonly use: 

• Cotton: Primark have introduced cotton being used in ‘Primark Cares’ garments that is either organic, recycled or has been sourced from the Primark Sustainable Cotton Programme (PSCP).  The programme ensures that 46% of cotton garments sold contain a portion of the material from one of these sustainable sources. 
• Polyester: Polyester is a cheap alternative synthetic fiber made from petroleum-based chemicals, and is used particularly in clothing such as t-shirts, dresses and outerwear. 
• Viscose/Rayon: Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp (typically sourced from trees such as beech, pine and eucalyptus). The pulp is subsequently washed, cleaned and bleached.  Primark incorporates viscose in many garments for softness and drape. 
• Denim: There are a variety of denim products offered by Primark made from a blend of cotton and elastane for stretch, such as jeans, jackets and skirts. 
• Wool: Primark uses either natural or blended wool in knitwear and winter clothing. 
• Leather and faux leather: Both of these options are primarily used in accessories such as bags, belts and footwear. 
• Recycled materials: In 2021, Primark launched a sustainability focused clothing range called ‘Primark Cares’, which is made up of clothes containing either recycled or more sustainably sourced materials. Recycled cotton, polyester and nylon into their clothing. In their 2022/23 report, Primark claimed that 55% of the clothing units sold contained materials from one of these sources. However, it is also important to consider there are large quantities of virgin plastic material used in their “Primark Cares” conscious range. 

It is important to consider the materials that Primark uses when determining the brand sustainability. Materials such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, are unsustainable for a plethora of reasons throughout the production process and items lifespan. Plastics in clothing are made from petrochemicals (oil and gas) and once created the plastics do not biodegrade. Instead these plastics erode into smaller and smaller pieces of plastic, known as microplastics. This pollutes the environment not just when throwing old or unwanted clothing into landfill, but also with every wash, microplastics are making their way into freshwater sources and the ocean. Studies have estimated that there are 5.2 trillion macro and microplastics in our oceans, weighing in at up to 269,000 tonnes!

The use of viscose rayon can pose significant sustainability problems throughout its life-cycle. Firstly, the pulp used in production is often not sustainably harvested, threatening ancient and endangered forests. Secondly, the chemicals used in order to break down the compound and turn it into a fiber are dangerous for workers, and often end up polluting the air and water if not recovered effectively.  

Recycled polyester is also not necessarily a solution for Primark as their business model still encourages high levels of consumption. This material is produced by transforming single-use plastics, such as plastic bottles, into pellets, then eventually into a yarn which can be used to construct the new garment. The new ‘recycled clothes’ cannot be recycled repeatedly, and has the potential to only increase the demand for single-use plastic. It is a good alternative when being used in a slower fashion context, however this is not the philosophy Primark operates with. Furthermore, many of the products Primark sells within its ‘Primark Cares’ range is only partially produced with this recycled material. For example, a cotton graphic t-shirt from part of the Primark cares range is made from 100% cotton, claiming to have only used a minimum of 50% of this cotton from the PSCP (recycled or organically/sustainably sourced). This means a large proportion of the production of this garment relies on using virgin materials, therefore maintaining a demand on new fabrics being produced alongside the recycled portion. Ultimately, the ‘Primark Cares’ range, as well as the choice of materials used in their clothing, does somewhat reflect a balance of affordability and sustainability considerations. However, the range is somewhat of a ‘greenwashing’ strategy as it does not go far enough in offering a sustainable solution to their overproduction, and rather sounds a lot better than it is actually doing in offering a long-term slower fashion.

Is Primark carbon neutral? 

Being carbon neutral is to ensure there is a balance between the release and absorption of carbon as a result of the production, usually by investing in carbon offset. The Fast Fashion industry notoriously has high levels of production emissions, with little efforts made to facilitate carbon absorption elsewhere. It is easier to ensure carbon neutrality when the initial garments production emissions are lower, as there is less offsetting that needs to be done. 

Primark’s total operations are far from being carbon neutral. In order to become carbon neutral and offset the greenhouse gas emissions produced from the entire supply chain, it is required to invest in initiatives such as renewable energy projects, reforestation efforts or purchasing carbon credits. Despite the fact that Primark has improved energy efficiency in offices and stores, with 70% of Primark stores now powered by renewable or low-carbon electricity, a significant amount of effort is required for Primark to be able to claim carbon neutrality, or even a reduction in carbon emissions, throughout its entire supply chain. This is because 97.5% of their baseline emissions (set in 2018/19) came from the manufacturing part of the supply chain. Although they have made a commitment to halve their emissions by 2030 – which stood at 7 million tonnes of CO₂ the year spanning 2022/23 – net emission for the entire production has actually risen by 11% in 2022/23 compared to 2018/19.

Essentially, the fashion industry as a whole faces huge challenges in achieving carbon neutral targets, due to the complexity of globalized supply chains, production process and transportation requirements. Brands such as Primark must incessantly use innovation and unwavering commitment to achieve the long-term goal that is to be ‘carbon neutral’. 

Does Primark have a clothing and shoe recycling programme? 

Primark does not currently have a clothing and shoe recycling program in place throughout all of their stores worldwide. In the UK, Ireland, Austria Germany and the Netherlands they have a textile takeback partnership with Yellow Octopus, claiming all items that are collected in store to be reused, recycled or repurposed. Yellow Octopus’ ‘not landfill’ policy has claimed to have diverted garments from landfill into donations to be worn again, or repurposed into ‘insulation, toy stuffing and mattress fillers’. In the UK they have also trialed the Yellow Octopus Upcycle Labs technology, using textile waste in home products such as vases and candle holders. 

However, how effective is the recycling scheme if Primark is still encouraging high levels of consumption, including that of non-biodegradable materials? Is the scheme a product of greenwashing and performative action, and does it fail to address the simple issue – we consume too many goods?

Is Primark ethical fashion?

Primark’s ethics have been subject to careful examination within the fashion industry. The company has made progress in its ethical practices comparatively to previous evidence, however they still face criticism and challenges as a result of the reliance on outsourcing. 

Where are Primark clothes made?

Primark sources its clothing and shoes from a global network of factories in countries known for their textile and garment industries. Here are some of the countries sourced from, and items commonly made in each: 

• Bangladesh: Many fast fashion brands including Primark source from Bangladesh, a manufacturing hub known for low labor costs and a large garment industry.
• China: China has a well-established manufacturing sector, producing and exporting a wide range of products. For Primark this includes clothing and footwear.
• India: Another significant manufacturing location for Primark is India, particularly for sourcing items like textiles, knitwear and accessories. 
• Other Countries: A non-exhaustive list of countries Primark sources from in its global supply chain includes Turkey, Vietnam, Cambodia, Pakistan, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Ethiopia.  

It is important to highlight that Primark works with a diverse and varied network of suppliers across these countries, and specific manufacturing locations are dependent on product and production requirements. A history of scrutiny and criticism for the brand regarding labor conditions has prompted efforts to increase the brands transparency on the ethical standards of their outsourcing throughout the supply chain. 

Supply Chain Transparency 

Primark has made efforts to increase transparency in its supply chain. They have a published Global Sourcing Factory List, providing information on 851 tier 1 factories in 22 countries, number of employees, and female to male ratio for each site. These factories are representative of approximately 94% of products for sale.

However, having the production outsourced does offset a sense of responsibility for any unsafe working conditions and issues, and limits the scope of information the company can provide with a high degree of accuracy. In the Fashion Transparency Index 2023, Primark was ranked 40% for overall disclosure of the manufacturing supply chain. They demonstrated a high level of commitment and policy implementation as a brand, however performed poorly in the overall traceability of the supply chain, which shows the limitations a brand, like Primark, can have when the entire operation is outsourced. 

Similarly, the limitations in traceability when outsourcing also makes it difficult to understand the true impacts of manufacturing on the environment. Although fast fashion brands can encourage and support a reduction in harmful chemicals used during production, as well as an improved efficiency of water usage, there is limited control and sense of responsibility over operations. 

Does Primark support fair labour practices including a fair living wage?

Since 2015 Primark has been a member of the ACT (Action, Collaboration and Transformation) coalition, pursuing a living wage for workers in the production chain. Primark have a Code of Conduct for suppliers, some of which outlines minimum wage requirements and health and safety measures to support workers well-being.They have stated they are ‘selective with whom they work with’, and carry out annual audits in tier 1 factories, ensuring that all ‘workers are paid per local legal minimum wage requirements’. However, there is very limited information on the success of achieving a living wage for workers, and therefore has the potential to be an opportunity for Primark to make ethical claims to improve their image, as opposed to an honest commitment to improving the fair labor practices in their supply chain.

Due to some of the locations of the factories, achieving a ‘local living wage’, even when met, may not be as successful as it sounds. Primark has many factories in the Guangdong region of China, where the local minimum wage ranges from $245 to $328 per month. If you compare this to the living wage published by the Global Living Wage Coalition for Shenzhen being $530 per month, it suggests that there is still a gulf between the local minimum wage and even the most basic of living wages for the region. 

Does Primark support animal welfare?

Some of the products that Primark offers are vegan-friendly and cruelty free. However not all of the products on offer fall under these categories: 

Vegan-Friendly Products

Pirmark derives less than 1% of its materials from ‘animal derived material’. Many of the vegan items on offer include synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and faux leather instead of their animal derived alternatives wool, silk and leather. In terms of where suppliers are sourcing the animal materials that are used, such as wool, there is a commitment from Primark for animal welfare throughout the supply chain. However there is little evidence of how ethical these sources actually are. So it is important to check product labels to ensure they meet vegan criteria. Check out these articles for more information on choosing vegan and cruelty free clothing and cosmetics.

Cruelty-Free Beauty 

Primark’s beauty line known as “Primark PS Beauty” offers some cruelty free options. Primark uses a cosmetics logo, a ‘Leaping Bunny’, to clearly indicate to consumers the product they are buying has not been tested on animals. However, not all products are necessarily cruelty free so it is important to look for the item-specific information. 

Primark has made efforts in providing both vegan and cruelty-free items. However, ethical considerations is a complex web of elements that often extends beyond vegan and cruelty-free factors, including fair labor and environmental impacts, which consumers may also want to consider. Consumers should undertake their own research to determine which items align with their personal preferences and values.

Primark’s Ethics and Sustainability Rating

Here is how Primark performed using our sustainable brand criteria. We rate brands against our three pillars: Transparency, Fair Labor and Sustainably Made. 

Transparency

For the transparency of Primark, they have performed well. This is because they have made real changes to improve the traceability of their outsourcing, including publication of almost all of their manufacturing sources. They have a clear and extensive code of conduct, and perform annual audits to ensure compliance. Furthermore, they are part of collaborative efforts to engage with manufacturing facilities. Therefore we have given an overall rating in transparency of 14 out of a possible 14. 

Fair Labor

Primark rating within the conditions of fair labor practices is as a result of factors such as supplier audits, transparency efforts, worker empowerment initiatives and living wage commitments. Although there have been some attempts to ensure safe working conditions for the people making the goods Primark sells, like many fast fashion brands, Primark state that they do not own any of the factories, and are often one of many brands that is sourcing their clothing from the same factory.

The outsourcing of manufacturing often results in a detachment from the working conditions in which the garment workers operate in, and reports of labor violations in particular supplier factories have surfaced in the past, highlighting ongoing challenges in ensuring ethical labor practices throughout the network of suppliers which is why, at Eco-Stylist, we rate Primark 6 out of 33. 

Sustainably Made

Some of the initiatives that Primark has implemented, such as an attempt to use sustainable materials, reduce waste and improve energy efficiency. The effort Primark has made in becoming more conscious of their environmental impact and addressing such concerns have impacted their rating positively with 31 out of a possible 49. 

Diversity, Equity and Inclusion at Primark

There is a lot of information about Primark’s commitment to diversity and inclusion throughout the company. Of senior management roles, they say 48% of them are filled by women. 

Depending on what you are wanting to buy, Primark does stock a wide range of sizes in all of their womenswear, menswear and kidswear. We have given Primark a rating of 1 out of a possible 4 for their efforts in DEI.

Our Principles

When it comes to our principles Primark’s score took an overall hit of -35. First, because they are a fast fashion brand, and therefore part of the driving force of un-sustainability in fashion. This earned them -25.

Second, we look for brands that inspire us and that we trust. In fact, all of our Certified brands meet these principles, while also being 0% fast fashion.

When it comes to Primark, we didn’t deduct points for trust, however we deducted points for inspiration as they are very far from leading anything when it comes to sustainable fashion. Subsequently another -10 points there.

Primark’s Overall Score: 17/100

After considering all of these contributing factors regarding traceability, ethics and sustainability, as well as how they decide to operate as a brand, Primark’s final score is 17 out of 100 which is far from what we think is a good sustainable and ethical choice.

Brands need 50 points or more to pass our criteria.

5 Ethical Alternatives to Primark 

There are several alternatives to Primark that prioritize ethical and sustainable production, as well as operating with high transparency of their sourcing. Here are some brands that offer eco-friendly and socially responsible fashion options that we would recommend:

1) Pact

Pact clothing is made out of organic cotton, often more durable, softer and of course better for the environment. Their apparel is affordable and comfortable without the negative social and environmental externalities. Pact is carbon neutral, fair trade and compared to conventional farming uses 81% less water and 62% less energy, so when shopping with them you are not only investing in yourself but people and the environment too.

2) Toad&Co

Toad&Co not only focus on sustainability, but also community wellbeing partnering with many non-profits and donating 1% of sales to charities, which you get to decide on when you shop. 100% of their clothing is made with a minimum 80% sustainable fibers such as organic cotton, hemp, TENCEL Lyocell and other recycled fibers. They acknowledge packaging as one of the biggest hurdles they face, and have made a commitment to remove all of their plastic-based product packaging by 2026. Toad&Co also have a resale platform for all of their garments ‘ToadAgain’, where you can shop pre-loved favorites. 

3) Girlfriend Collective 

Girlfriend Collective focuses on comfortable, eco-friendly loungewear and activewear. Their clothing is made from recycled materials like post-consumer water bottles, discarded fishing nets and fabric scraps amongst other salvaged waste. Girlfriend Collective sources their recycled materials from a specialized partner in Taiwan, and in charge of assembly is a SA8000 certified sewing partner based in Vietnam Their packaging is 100% recycled and recyclable. As well as championing ethical and sustainable fashion, they also promote health and wellness for all body types, promoting inclusivity. 

4) ASKET

ASKET centers around a great philosophy – ‘not designing for seasons, designing forever’ as we are buying more clothing, but using them less than ever. Supporting this is their ‘Lifecycle Responsibility’, with ASKET  taking responsibility after purchase through their care, repair and take-back programs, helping you get the most from your clothing. Garments purchased from ASKET can be traced back to the farm with full transparency, sourcing the highest qualities of organic, traceable and recycled fibers. This improves not only how the garment looks on you, but also durability all whilst reducing impact on people and the planet. 

5) prAna 

prAna is a sustainable brand that makes athletic apparel, outerwear and more. prAna takes care in every step of their production, from organic cotton and hemp materials used to the careful management of chemicals during the manufacturing process. The majority of their sewing factories are Fair Trade certified, pushing for 100% Fair Trade Certified factories by 2028. They also take great care when packaging and shipping products, with their core ethos centered around choosing sustainably made clothing for social and environmental responsibility. 

More Sustainable Alternatives to Primark

Looking for more options? You can find many more sustainable alternatives to Primark in our brand guide.

Which brand should we rate next?

Amy Applin

Amy previously studied Environment and Development at the London School of Economics with a particular interest in climate injustice. Currently she works in the travel industry hoping to hear more of the unique perspectives held by people all over the world, and has taught herself how to crochet and sew her own clothes at home.